First Layer Not Sticking
Follow the steps. Most problems are fixed by step 1 or 2.
Clean the build plate
Wash it with warm water and dish soap (no oils or moisturizers), scrub with a sponge or plastic brush so the soap reaches into the texture, rinse and dry with a paper towel. Finger oils are the #1 reason prints don't stick, and alcohol tends to spread them instead of removing them (Bambu).
After washing, touch the plate only at its edges. A 90%+ IPA wipe on a cool plate is fine between washes, but it does not replace the wash. Never use acetone on PEI. Scratched or worn plate? Our build plate buying guide compares replacements that fit Bambu printers.
Run auto bed leveling
Run Auto Bed Leveling from the printer's calibration menu (A1: Settings → Maintenance → Calibration; X1: Settings → Print Calibration; others: Settings → Calibration). Corrects Z-offset drift that builds up over time.
Select the right plate type
In Bambu Studio, the plate type must match the plate on the printer. A model sliced for the Cool Plate often will not stick on the Textured PEI Plate: the two plates need different bed temperatures (step 4), and the Textured PEI Plate has a different Z offset.
A2L: Settings → Maintenance → First Layer Calibration; X2D: Settings → Calibration → First Layer Calibration. It fine-tunes the distance between nozzle and heatbed for the first layer; Bambu calls it generally unnecessary, so use it only when the other steps did not help (see our nozzle-too-close guide).
P2S: tap Calibration in the sidebar, then First Layer Quality Calibration. For a first layer that sits too high, Bambu says to lower the offset in small steps (for example from 0 to -0.01 mm) and print a test after each change.
| Lines round with gaps | Nozzle too far from the plate |
| Lines transparent/paper-thin | Nozzle too close to the plate |
| Lines squished, opaque, touching | Correct |
Check bed temperature
Wrong bed temp = no adhesion. Verify in your slicer:
| PLA | 35–45°C (Cool Plate), 45–65°C (other plates) |
| PETG | 60–80°C |
| ABS / ASA | 90–100°C |
| TPU | 35–45°C (Engineering Plate 30–35°C) |
Also try reducing first layer speed to 30–50%.
Less common causes
If steps 1–4 didn't fix it, expand the topic that matches your situation:
Add a brim (5–10mm width). Reduce part cooling on the first layers. For ABS/ASA, you need an enclosure. Check for drafts.
Bed mesh is uneven. Run auto bed leveling again. Check bed mounting screws underneath.
Wash with soap and water first (remove factory film). New plates need 2–3 prints to "break in."
Cool Plate (discontinued): PLA only, with a thin coat of glue stick as release agent (Bambu lists PETG as not recommended).
Cool Plate SuperTack (its successor): PLA and PETG without glue, never TPU.
Textured PEI: PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, ASA, PA, PC (Bambu suggests glue stick for PC, PA, ABS and ASA).
Smooth PEI (High-Temp): PLA without glue; PETG, ABS, ASA, PC, PA and TPU only with a layer of glue, or the PEI sheet can tear.
Nothing worked?
Ask in the official Bambu Lab forum or open a ticket via Bambu Lab support; photos help a lot. You can also contact us or post in our community forum. Or try the interactive troubleshooter.
Tools that fix this
Give the first layer a surface it can actually stick to.
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HMS codes that point here
If Bambu Handy or Bambu Studio shows one of these HMS codes, it maps to the problem on this page. Each code links to Bambu's official step-by-step fix; come back here if the official steps don't solve it.
HMS_0300-1800-0001-0006– Heatbed leveling data abnormal (check plate and nozzle tip) · official fixHMS_0300-1800-0001-0005– Z-axis motor obstructed (foreign objects in the Z slider) · official fix